1-21-05 Friday
Bedtime comes early around 7pm. It is dark and nothing else to do. With one small light to illuminate the room Jim will read or listen to his short wave radio. Trying to catch a little world news. Having to duck from the occasional bat flying through the room, drawn by the light. My first night in the hammock well didn't quiet workout. First I have never slept in one. With a few lessons from Jim. I crawl in and cover up with my little blanket.

It didn't take long for it to get really cold. Right then they were having a cold front. Cold at night, warm during the day. Also there were these little nasty black gnats that just loved to bite. After several hours of squirming around in the hammock. Trying to find the comfort zone that they offer. I lost the battle. And was so cold there would be no sleeping that night.

Guess I was keeping Jim awake. Because before too long. He suggested we swap the hammock for the tent he was in. Grabbing his sleeping bag we swapped. I was amazed at how easily with his sleeping bag. Just rolled himself into the hammock. And soon I heard him sleeping. I had brought only summer clothes. With the long sleeve shirt and pants that I had worn on the trip. So he layered me up with some of his spare clothes. And some time during the night. I think I finally slept.

Well, wake up time comes as early. The next thing you hear is Jim up and about. Doing a little stretching, then you hear the steady foot steps. Of him jogging up the long white road. He will be back in about 30 minutes. So it's time to get up. To crawl out of the tent, with any moan and groans that come with that. And start your own day. It's barely light outside, usually with a layer of fog hanging around, and still very cool.

When he gets back, off he goes to take a cold water shower. Which makes my brain hurt to even think about, then it's breakfast. Usually consisting of bananas, tortillias and a handful of animal cookies. Me thankfully I was able to have a box of milk every morning. The first box, I swore, was milked from a donkey. So we changed brands after that. Then Jim is off to do a few hours of work down at the hacienda. During this time I usually walked around, played with the dogs, or wrote in my journal.

Later after his work, he would come back to the ruin. And we would either walk the mile to town. Or find something interesting to do. Of course that first day, I still wasn't right with my new world. This day Jim painted or white washed the front of our ruin. They use lime and water. And just slap it on. But of course everytime you go near it. You get white all over you, but it works.

On the road I think the day before. Jim had seen an anteater. One morning I saw a fox. And thankfully never saw any of the coral snakes I was warned about. There are some beautiful birds there. One in particular the mot-mot. I only saw it a few times. But it was always a thrill to see. Jim explained alot of the birds to me. Of course now I don't remember some of their names. But I will never forget the sound of their calls in early morn. And enjoying the colors of the orioles that are so much larger than ours.

So much of the vegetation and trees are different from ours. Here and there you will see something you recognize. Something that was bought in store. Such as the aloe vera plants (seen at the left). They grow very well in this area, outside and not in a flower pot. I got to see some that were even blooming. The Yucatan is having it's dry season now. So there were many flowers plants and trees that I didn't get to see. (Those are Heliconias at the right.)

Oddly enough being almost a mile from town. You would be surprised how much you can hear from town. And sometimes at night they really get roudy. Shooting off rockets to celebrate just the moment. Or who knows what. Early in the morning you hear the chicken farm down the road. It sounds like there must be a million of them there.

Having met the work hands at Komchen. They are very nice and easy going. Other than at the bus station. I only had one other uncomfortable incident while there. A trip to town, meant going to the office for the internet. And picking up supplies.

Many Buenos Dias are exchanged and big bright smiles. Some of the older people still wear the traditional style. But the younger folks have modernized themselves. This was a little sad to see. There was nothing prettier than seeing the older ladies in their hand embroidered white dresses.

I also noticed that alot of them listened to American songs on the radio. But it was the music of the 70's and 80's. Although you would also hear spanish music coming from the different houses. It was kinda sad to see the spanish culture going away. The most surprising to see was. How many of them had cell phones stuck to their ears. And how they used our cartoon characters. Bugs Bunny, Winnie the Pooh and even Shreik. Seemed to be the hot items. I had to wonder, didn't they have their own cartoon characters?

1-22-05 Sat.
Jim has lost his tent. Offering me another chance in the hammock. I had to turn him down. A country girl I am. But the confines of the tent were more comforting. Poor Jim. But he was so good about it. And took it in his normal gentle stride.

So let me tell you about our ruin. We have half of a front door, held up by a board placed against it. Jim has rigged a cage that hangs from the ceiling. That holds all food supplies. On the other wall he has hung 3 shelves from the ceilng. That holds all clothing, books, etc. Anything you don't want nightly mice snooping around in. There were also a few hooks on the wall to hang backpacks and the such. Second reminder personal note. Keep all zippers zipped!! Jim has made a bench out of rocks and a board. This was our furniture.

We each had a window ledge to set things on. Neither having glass or screen in them. We did have a complete back door also held in place by propped boards. But anything could crawl or slither under the doors. There was a constant parade of ants through the place. The initial rule was no eating in the house. But since the dogs made it so difficult to eat outside. We had to break this one. Only recently had they put a roof on the ruin. At first Jim was staying in one of the better buildings. But when he went to spend some time at the beach. His stuff was boxed and moved to accomodate guest. After the guest left and Jim had returned. He was offered the place back. But as with Jim, he was just as happy in his roofless ruin.

Jim has a small solar cooker right outside. Which has been set up wrong. When trying to explain the difference to Ana Maria, it fell on deaf ears. It seems that her way is the only way, even when it is wrong. Just because it does work somewhat. They can never seem to comprehend that there is a better way. So when Jim puts his food in to cook. It takes the whole day to do so. One of our first meals, he had put corn tortillas in a iron skillet. And then put eggs on the shells (as at the left). The combination was not anything I had ever had. But trusting in Jims cooking skills. I was looking forward to the hot meal. And was not disappointed.

Resting and hiding out Friday. It was time to be sociable. Walking down to the Hacienda where Jim is working. You can still see what the hurricane did to a once beautiful place. It would take years to restore it back to the way it was. But even longer for the trees to return.

Making my way down to the main house. I saw banana plants on both sides of the road. But there are birds there that like them as much as we do. So many of the young bananas were damaged and eaten, long before they had a chance to mature. (At the left I'm drinking my milk and poking at some green bananas.)

At the house, its a very nice open court yard. Two very large trees still standing, over a concrete fish pool. They are called Strangler Figs, hope I said that right. That's me in a Strangler Fig's roots at the right. With lots of tiny green figs on them. But you can't eat them. The first building to your right is a library. Then a small tool shop, and the kitchen. Straight ahead stands the main house. Covered in ivy and bouganvilliae, surrounded by trees. Almost swallowed up with vegetation. And to the left of the fish pool, stands what is left of the fruit orchard. Maybe 10 to 12 trees of oranges, mandarines, and lemons. Close to the kitchen is a papaya plant and a grapefruit tree by the library. Which I would find out soon tasted very good. They are not like the ones we buy in the stores. All tart and sometimes bitter making people dump loads of sugar on them. These were large, sweet and very pulpy. It was hard to finish one by myself. Personal note,,, never eat alot of juicy fruit before bed time.

Finding Ana Maria and Jim working. We chatted for a few minutes. Then Ana started asking me about working. Which of course I had no problem with. We started with the week that the guest would arrive. I would mop the kitchen early every morning. Uh,, how early?? She showed me her way of doing it. Of course my brain quickly saw a much better way to do it. But knowing how she was I left it alone. Then she showed me a place in the yard that needed to be cleaned around a bench. By this time, Jim walked up and changed the subject before she could add anymore jobs to my list.

I was glad to get back down to the little porch I would sit on. And watch the iguanas and the birds. I never saw a squirrel. Found that odd. I suppose I thought they lived everywhere. But Jim was having problems with the iguanas. They were eating the young plants in his garden. There one day and gone the next. So he put up some netting around one of the gardens. Where this particular large fellow liked to hang out on the wall. I figure he's just waiting till the plants get to the right munching size. Then no netting will keep him out. Of course I hope that doesn't happen. But maybe it was just the look in his eye.

It's about as warm as it's gonna get this day. So a quick run through the ice cold shower. Personal note,,, do not use shampoo on hair. It does not rinse out.

Quickly drying off, shivering to the bone. Throwing clothes on, you run outside to sit in the sun. But with all of the calcium in the water. And the lime dust in the air. It doesn't take long before your skin starts feeling caked and gummy again.

This trip has been good for me. And I hope I will learn and grow from the experience. I havn't really missed TV or handy telephones yet. Although I would like to hear the voices of my family. But there is something to be said for flushing toilets......

1-23-05
Emails from home. Off to town we went to check emails and so Jim could do a little internet work. When we first got to town. We were greeted by a huge pink moma pig. She came out of a dirt road. Making a large circle around us. Grunting and snorting as she went. It was obvious she really had something on her mind. And somebody was getting a good cussing. We stood still watching to see how this would all turn out. Swishing her tail she made her circle around us, then went right back up the dirt road she had come from. Muttering something under her breathe. One other person was standing by the cemetary. Once gone, we all just stood there for a moment. Feeling completely chastised and amused at the actions of this super large pink pig.

Feeling free to go. On into town we went. As you walk along. There are plenty of people in the streets coming and going. Back yards full of fruit trees, and rock made structures. For such a poor looking town. The people seem just as happy as someone in a nicer town.

Dodging bicycles and pieced together motorcycles. Stepping around the many dogs in the streets. Some very healthy, some would break your heart. Don't be surprised to see a large turkey standing beside a car. As if he owns the whole street.

Most shops are open and airy. Selling everything from fresh food to medicines. Finding out much too late, they even had a post office. Meat of an unknown source hanging from hooks. Pans of cooked foods sitting on tables in the hot sun. Not seeming to alarm anyone but me. Coming from a different culture. Flies on hanging meat, and pans of food sitting in the sun. Was anything but appetizing. But these people didn't see any problem with it. And all but a very few looking very healthy and happy.

Most having beautiful shiney black hair, perfect teeth, and not one pair of glasses on anyones face. It made you wonder about your own culture. Most folks there if they got sick. By passed the Doctors going straight to the pharmacist. This is an culture that has survived so many adversities, and is still going strong. What do they know that we don't.

As in any town, there is always one. I don't know if this man was crazy, homeless or just no longer cared. But if you run across him, do your best to stay up wind. Everyone had just excepted his comings and goings. And I never saw anyone being mean to him. Unlike in the US. When people will go out of their way. To ignore and shun someone they consider beneath them. As if this person has had a choice in their situation.

News from home. The highlight of my day was to get a email from home. Of course we were not in town everyday. But each time we were. I would wait anxiously for that one to pop onto the screen. Thankfully it was mostly good news. Except for one incident where one of my dogs got run over. Of course this put a damper on things. Making me feel like I needed to be home. To take care of him. But that was impossible. So I had to rely on the good judgements of the folks at home.

Back at Komchen a few chores to get done. Ana Maria wants a nice fountain in one of the ponds. There is already a water source. Now it's up to Jim, to add decorative rocks for the water to run in. As with all chores. There is suggested ways and Ana's way. Helping Jim find rocks. I thought he did a great job. But when scrutinized by Ana. She decided it would be better to let the workers do it.

This area is thick with chiggers and seed ticks. So you have to be very careful or very itchy. Cleaning around the bench. I worked as quickly as I could. Satisfied with my work. The next thing to do is dive through the cold shower. In hopes of removing any un-wanted passengers. But as in the US, you just can't get em all.

Surprisingly I didn't have as much problem with this as I feared. But did end up with my share. And for the curious out there. I did manage to escape the revenge of Montezuma.

Bee keepers came out to check some old hives. So off we all headed into the thickets and the thorns. They are nothing like you see on TV. No big white suits and face guards. Armed only with a smoke pot, long sleeves and gloves. Thickets being over our heads. They would climb trees to get a higher view of the area. Scratched up but hoping for a taste of fresh honey, the hives are spotted. But sadly have been long abandoned. All is not lost.

It was a great adventure, that won me the admiration of the beekeepers. Guess they thought I would be a whinning puddle of mush half way in. I not only made the whole trip, kept up with them and never complained. Jim says it is a story they will tell for years. Of course they all had a good laugh when I dropped back to use the baño = bathroom. They were speaking in spanish. And must have asked what happened to me. Jim in spanish told them. Recognizing the word bano'. I hollered out, I heard that!! But it was good to know. That even though, I stayed at the end of the line. They all seemed to stay aware that I was with them.

Another quick dive through the shower. Jim and I decided to raid the fruit orchard. It was an odd mixture of fruits. You just had to bite into it to see if it tasted good. Jim with his knife could slice through the thick peeling with no problems. But I chose to do it the hard way. Ripping through the thick peeling. And taking my time to enjoy every drop of the treasure inside.

Leaving the orchard all sticky and gooey. With our bucket full of fresh fruit and full tummys. It was time to wash up and get settled in for the evening.

Supper time we decided it was time for a feast. Crossing over to one of the ruins with no roof. Jim quickly builds a fire in a pit in the floor. And soon he has a food fire going. Out comes the black skillet. Pouring noodles and water in it, using chop sticks to stir it. Jim boils the noodles to perfection. He fills our cups with hot noodles. And we add cheese that I had bought in town. Jim had also added salt in our noodles. It is sea salt that is harvested locally. And has the best taste you could imagine. It is nothing like we buy in the stores.

Now throwing some eggs into the skillet. Jim whips up a new masterpiece. Puts our eggs onto of our cheese and noodles. It was a feast to behold and enjoy under the dark skies and bright stars of the Yucatan.

The Beach
Today we decided it was go to the beach day. I couldn't wait. Jim had pieced together one of the old bikes for me to ride. Since the beach was 7 miles away. Thats right 7 long miles. You can stop laughing now.

It was a old boys bike, with very high suspension, racing handle bars and the tiniest tires I have ever seen on a bike. Not being on a bike in, oh let's say 25 years. I was a little skeptical, but willing to try it.

So grabbing our back packs. Of course I had stuffed it full of everything I thought I could possibly need, but didn't. Making it weigh about 50 pounds. Down the road we went on our bikes. Needless to say my first take off was a Kodak moment. Short legs, tall bike, just don't mix. Well I got up and going. But was suppose to miss any sharp rocks or big ones, due to the tiny tires. It's the Yucatan, it is a rock. So here I go wobbling and wiggling all over the place.

Then the tiny little seat was another matter. Almost disappearing up in this big ole rump. But not good enough, it rocked up and down. And shifted back and forth. This was not going to be good. I'm sure I will never be able to have children now. But on we went. Not far into the ride. Although the road was mostly flat. This heavy smoker was gasping for air. And trying to put the fire out. That had ignited in the muscles in my legs. But I was holding mine own.

A couple of breaks down the road. With the same wibble wobble take offs on the bike. Soon we were looking for something to pad the seat with. But then it happened. I had kept a 4 to 5 foot distance between Jim and I. But I think either I was in a brain zone. Or maybe it was the absent of oxygen to my brain. The next thing I knew. I had gotten too close to Jim. And my front tire hit his back tire. And down I went. I was painting the highway with the hide off of my right leg and elbow. It seemed that I slid for 30 minutes before grinding to a halt. The next thing I know. Jim pale faced is hovering over me. Trying to see if I am dead or just broken in a million pieces. I had not hit my head but felt dazed. Ok,, stupid.

Sitting up, Jim asked was anything broke. Replying no, nothing is broke. But I am skinned up. He retrieved my bike from the middle of the road. And I scooted to the side, to nurse my wounds. After setting for a few minutes trying to gather my wits. Jim had found a piece of cardboard on the side of the road to cover the seat with. Trying to stretch my short road rashed leg over the bike. And keep the cardboard balanced on the seat. Another classic take off was in motion.

Well we got about ¼ of a mile. And the chain came off of the bike. While hollering to Jim, down I went again. But this time taking the hide off of my left knee. That was it, I was not getting back on the bike. So we walked the last part to the beach.

Being so late in the morning. We had missed getting to see the Pink Flamingos up close. But were able to use binoculars. And spot two clusters of them further out. They were just beautiful. But I sure hated not getting a closer look at them.

On to the beach we went. The wind was blowing and the sun was shining. It just couldn't have been any better. At the right you see me showing off my scratches and bruises. There were lots of seagulls and pelicans playing in the water. And plenty of seashells to search through. All of the really big ones are picked up early by the locals. This was just as well. Because, the weight of things always had to be a consideration. Whether walking, biking, or running through bus stations. And finding out later. It's illegal to take Conch shells out of the country. Glad I looked that up, cause I was fixing to spell that wrong. There were alot of very large pieces of coral. Sadly they had to be left behind. But somehow with the smaller treasures I found. I was still able to fill my little bag up. (That's seaweed I'm holding at the left.)

Time to go:: egads!!

I had made my mind up. That I was not getting back on that bike. I wanted Jim to ride on ahead. And I was more than happy to walk my bike the 7 miles back to Komchen. Well Jim saw this as a dangerous thing to even attempt. And in his gentle way. Reasoned with me about the dangers. Even taking my over packed heavy backpack along with his own. Coaxed me back on the bike. I had told him, if I get this thing going. I'm not stopping till we get to Komchen. So we took off.

I hated him having to carry my load too. But it sure helped out alot. Several times he hollered back if I wanted to stop and see something. Not daring to try to get off of the bike. I would say no, Komchen. Poor Jim.

Getting close to the gate. He decided to ride ahead. Get off of his bike, and stand at the road to catch me when I came by. And thats exactly what he did. I'm sure if he hadn't done that. I would have gone down again. The bike was just so tall. I almost had to fall over to get a foot on the ground.

Walking our bikes down the long white road. Getting to the ruin. Jim asked did I want to keep the bike. Or should he take it back down to the tool shed. Well you know what my answer was. I waved bye bye to it as he walked it back down to the shed. Another cold night and early morning fog. I heard the familiar sounds of Jim going for his morning jog. Dragging my sore stiff body, almost having to roll out of the tent. I was glad there were no witnesses to the comedy.

Later this day limping down to the house to get my milk. I'm no longer feeling comfortable around Ana Maria. Having to understand that she came from a very aristocratic home in Spain. She still carries the high nosed air about her. And at some point I guess she decided my being there just didn't suit her anymore.

Helping me decide to leave earlier than I had planned. But you can't take this attitude personal. She does this to everyone. Only, I didn't have to put up with it. She wanted me to clean the pool and wash the dogs. When I felt better.

So back down at the ruin I told Jim how I felt and of my plans. He understand but hated to see me cut this vacation short because of her. Ana been pretty short with most everyone at this point. And when she saw Jim, she started trying to add more jobs to my list. So he was able to cut her off with that I was leaving soon.

Guest were due to arrive the first of Feb. And she was trying to get all of the houses ready. Which is understandable. But there was no need for the attitude she took toward the people trying to help. So I chose Tuesday as my leaving day. Mainly because my Mom always says never plan anything important on Mondays. Still having about 6 days left. Jim and I decided to make the best of it.

Having already gone on one walk with an avid bird watcher. We decided to make a trip into Merida. To check the airline and bus schedules. And try to make it to a different beach before I left. Having an invitation already to visit another ranch. That was also on the to do list. The more we stayed away from the ranch the better.

Personal Note,,, never apply antibiotic salve to a skinned leg. And go out into the sun.

Rose-breasted Grossbeak
What a beautiful bird. A worker had found this injured bird, that could only fly so high. Then fall back to the ground. Bringing it to Jim and I. I quickly took the bird and started checking it over. Finding no broken bones. I suspected that it was just stunned. From one of the pools I dripped water into its mouth, and it drank. Then we put it into the dim chicken house to rest. Later when Jim checked, it was gone. So we are sure it was ok, and recovered enough to fly away. Personal note,,, never let a Rose-breasted Grossbeak clamp its beak down on your finger.

Being more comfortable with my surroundings now and the town. I was still struggling about my route home. Jim kept assuring me that I had already done the hard part. But the fears I felt on my trip down were still ever present. I was dreading having to pass through the Villahermosa station again.

Still sore and stiff from my falls. My right shoulder was really throbbing. And I discovered I had a bruised rib on my left side. Covered in scratches from the thorn bushes. And of course the skinned arm and knees. A few chigger and tick bites here and there. I could not imagine trying to make another 4 day bus ride.

Sleeping on a hard floor at night. I was not getting very much rest. And my own insecurities of my abilities constantly arose. Trying not to think about it much. I was determined to enjoy and explore the Yucatan as much as I could. Before I had to worry about all of that. After all I had made it here. Surely I could make it back home.

But I have to tell you. I have never felt as alone and scared as I did on the bus ride down. Many the time if I had seen an airport. I do believe I would have turned around. But something inside kept driving me on. I knew I could not fail. That I had to see this through. So taking on the Scarlett O'hara attitude. I would worry about that tomorrow.

Finding out that the first guest coming in the next few days. Was going to be put in the house where our shower was. I couldn't believe Ana would do that. When others were available. This would mean we would have to walk all the way down to the main house. To use the outside shower and bathroom. And where we hung our clothes to dry on the back porch would not be allowed either. So I stretched a small piece of rope behind our ruin. We used that and large rocks as our drying area.

Eventually I left the comfort of the shaded back porch where I would sit to write in my journal. We could still sit on top of the house. Which was very nice. But trying to stay out of sight as much as possible. I looked for another comfort zone. Sitting on some large rocks on the side of our ruin. I happened to look down one day. Noticing a very large tail laying between my feet.

I came up from there. Journal going one way and me the other. Of course my curiosity got the best of me and I had to find out what it was. Turns out it was just one of the large black iguanas. He had made a burrow between the large rocks. So I left him his burrow, and moved down further on the rocks. And we got along just fine. They are not aggressive at all. But it was only fair. After that, we each had our own space. And there were no more problems. Wonder if he planned it that way. With a well planned placement of it's tail.

Having cleaned out around a tree for Ana. Jim took on the job of cleaning the pool. I had already walked back to the ruin. When Jim comes walking up with his underwear in his hands. Oh yeah,, I had to ask.

Seems while blasting the pool with bleach. The hose sprung a leak and was spraying Jim in the behind. Trying not to burst out in laughter. He explained that he had showered down there. And was going to shower again. As he walked off, I could see that the back of his shorts were now a lot lighter. At this sight, with his underwear in hand. I was unable to hold back any longer. Shooting me one of those looks over his shoulder. He went off to get another shower.

Having limited myself to cup of soups and canned tuna. With some of Jims cooking thrown in. We were doing just fine. The towns folk, regarded me as the rich Gringa. Looking forward to me coming into their shops. Of course in the US, I would be considered eating meager and poor, it was a strange concept. Milk was in boxes on the shelves, which has to be cooled to drink. And I did manage to enjoy one coke a day. But in my situation. I felt that I was doing very well.

While cleaning the pool. Jim had found a giant frog/toad, that had drowned. Bringing it down to show me and take pictures of it. It took both of my hands to hold it up for the camera. Soon discovering little red parasites on the frog. We found a rock wall to put it on. And we both made sure we washed our hands real good.

Having decided that the next day we would bus to Merida. Jim walked to the house to let Ana know. And came back with a handful of lettuce that he had grown in his garden. What a feast we had that night. I had tuna sandwiches stuffed with the delicious lettuce. And he piled it on his skillet supper of biscuit and eggs.

Early to bed, early to rise. It's still dark outside. But with a full moon to guide our steps. We are off to Dzemul to catch a bus to Merida. No food or water this morning. You never know when you will find a bathroom. We sit in Dzemul (pronouned zemool) waiting for a bus.

Costing 18 pesos each, we catch a bus. And sit back for the hour ride. Those of weak heart should not take these buses. What ever is the largest thing on the road. Has the right of way. Dipping and darting through the small towns. With the constant speed bumps. We finally hit the highway. Now picture this. I had mentioned earlier that some of them play our 70 and 80's music on the radio. So here we go down the highway. What felt like 90 miles a hour passing bicycles, horsedrawn carts or what ever is on the road. And the bus driver keeping time to the old classic "My Sheronna".

Having this image in my mind. Of my Mother holding on to the dashboard spread out like a cat. I had to laugh. Personal note,,, Never watch out the front window. Just try and watch the nice scenary from the side windows. Rolling to a stop on a busy street in Merida. Jim pulls out our little maps and off we go.

Finding the tourist office, a travel agent and the bus stations. We had the information we needed. Dodging and darting through the busy streets and trying to keep Jim in my sights. Having agreed if separated. We would meet back up in the central park. This was a really nice place, complete with musicians and a man feeding dozens of pigeons. There were Mercardos full of fresh fruit and folks selling their wares. With the ever present meats hanging from hooks in the outside shops.

At the bus station Jim had spoken with one of the Managers there. Telling him of my troubles coming down. Together they worked out a route for me. Where I would get 50% off of my return ticket. Taking me all the way to Tampico on the same bus. This would cover three quarters of my trip home. And by pass Villahermosa. So we bought the ticket.

Jim had already traded me some of his pesos for us currency. But we still needed to go to a bank. At the bank I had to pay for my visitors Visa. And I exchanged some of my money for pesos. It was time to find a bus back to Dzemul.

Back at the ruin. A little supper whipped up. Jim reading his book. After listening to his news. Being a classical music person himself. He tuned the radio to a golden oldie rock and roll channel. And tolerated it for my benefit. Sleep came easy that night.

Before the little light is turned out each night. I crawl up in the tent. And Jim shuffles around making sure things are in place. Then he brushes his teeth. I bring this up because the strangest thing would occur each time. He starts sneezing. So the passtime right before lights out. Would be me counting each time he would sneeze. And him saying that would be the last one, Nope I'm done, that was the last one. I think his record sneezes in one night was 12.